6 Lost Districts of Downtown Jacksonville
A district is defined as an area of a country or city, regarded as a distinct unit because of a particular characteristic. In an era where the pedestrian was king in Jacksonville, downtown was loaded with distinct districts-- many of which are no longer with us. Here are a few lost districts that you may not be familiar with.
1. Main Street's Auto Row
Scott Wiley Used Cars near 5th and Main in the 1950s. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
Auto rows developed in numerous cities in the mid-20th century as car companies sought to create districts where the sale and repair of cars could become an easy urban shopping experience. Springfield’s Main Street was Jacksonville’s first major auto row. Major dealerships on Main Street included Claude Nolan Cadillac, Downtown Chevrolet, Brumos Porsche and Massey Motors.
Gateway Motors near Main and State in the 1950s. Gateway was replaced with the Heart of Jacksonville hotel (Parkview Inn) a few years after this image was taken. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
Triangle Motors in Springfield. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Claude Nolan Cadillac at Main and Orange in the 1910s. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
1. Ashley Street: The Harlem of the South
A parade on Ashley Street, between Broad and Jefferson Streets, during the 1950s.
During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, LaVilla was the city’s railroad hub, primary red light district, and center of African-American life and culture in Northeast Florida. During it's heyday, Ashley was lined with theaters such as the Bijou, Airdome, Globe, Frolic, and Strand. With live music venues like the Lenape Bar, Hollywood Music Store and Knights of Pythias Hall, it was an important stop on what was known as the Chitlin' Circuit for black entertainers. In fact, in 1910, the first published account of blues singing on a public stage occurred on Ashley Street. Ashley's fortunes took a turn for the worse with the rest of the LaVilla neighborhood with Desegregation. What was left as taken out by Ed Austin's River City Renaissance plan of the 1990s.
Inside of Hayes Luncheonette at 634 Ashley Street in 1938.
The Knights of Pythias Building on Ashley Street was torn down in 1957 for a project that never came to reality.
The Strand Threatre, at Ashley and Jefferson, was famous for its apple and potato pies.
3. Meatpacking on West Bay
The majority of downtown's meat packing companies were clustered along Bay Street, between Hogan and Broad Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The meat packing industry handles the slaughtering, processing, packaging, and distribution of animals such as cattle, pigs, sheep and other livestock. While slaughterhouses and stockyards were located on the outskirts of the city, West Bay Street, between Julia and Broad Streets, served as early Jax's meatpacking district. Meatpacking companies here included Morris & Company, Swift & Company , Wilson & Company, Cudahy Packing Company, Smith Richardson & Conroy Wholesale Meats, and Armour & Company. This slice of industry and the rail yards that served it were eventually lost during the city's mid-20th century redevelopment of the riverfront.
These companies were served by railyards where Water Street exists today. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
A look at this district from the Riverside Viaduct. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
4. Hogan Street: A Shopper's Paradise
JCPenney and F.W. Woolworth shared a three story structure at Hogan and Monroe Streets. This building was demolished and replaced with the federal courthouse building in the early 2000s. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
For decades, no mall in Jacksonville could compete with the four blocks of downtown's Hogan Street, between Bay and Duval Streets. Anchored by May-Cohens' flagship department store, the 9th largest in the country when it opened, and Sear's Cadillac Store, the chain's largest in the South, the strip also was home to JCPenney, Levy-Wolf, Furchgott's, Rosenblums, and F.W. Woolworth. In fact, if these stores would have survived the "Billion Dollar Decade," no 21st century shopping center in town would compete with them either. Unfortunately, while new skyscrapers transformed the downtown skyline, six of these stores closed between 1981 and 1987, taking downtown's retail heart right along with them to the burbs.
Levy-Wolf at Hogan and Adams Streets in the early 1980s. Courtesy of the City of Jacksonville Historic Preservation Office.
Rosenblums at Hogan and Adams. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Sears Cadillac Store in 1960. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
May-Cohens at Hogan and Duval Streets during the early 1980s construction of Hemming Plaza. Courtesy of the Library of Congress.
Window shopping at Furchgott's Hogan and Adams flagship store during the 1940s. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
5. Hotel Row on Julia Street
The Mayflower was located at Julia and Bay Streets. The EverBank Tower (then Southern Bell) replaced it during the early 1980s. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
The heart of Florida’s first major city was simultaneously home to one of the largest theater districts in the South and an African-American cultural district in LaVilla, whose vibrancy provided the genesis for the Harlem Renaissance. Visitors and tourist came from all over the world to visit the city’s beautiful and unforgettable charm; creating an environment for several grand hotels that defined the downtown experience. Most of the city's largest hotels, like Hotel Mayflower, George Washington Hotel, Robert Meyer Hotel, Ambassador Hotel, Hotel Aragon, Hotel Rollings, and the Park Hotel where either on or within a two block walk of Julia Street. Partially due to a decline in nearby industry, employment, aging facilities and the closure of the Jacksonville Terminal, most of downtown's major early 20th century hotels ceased operations by the end of the 1970s.
The George Washington Hotel at Julia and Adams. This building was replaced with a surface parking lot, shortly after the hotel closed in the 1970s. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Hotel Aragon was located at Julia and Forsyth Streets. This site is now a surface parking lot for the BB&T Tower. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Robert Meyer Hotel was located at the intersection of Julia and Church Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Park Hotel was located at Julia and Forsyth Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
6. The Great White Way
A postcard of Forsyth Street's theatre district. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
During the first half of the 20th Century, Forsyth Street developed into Jacksonville's version of Manhattan's "Great White Way." Nicknamed in honor of New York City's show district, this downtown entertainment area was a brightly-lit portion of Forsyth Street between Main and Newnan streets, once home to as many as twelve theaters within compact walking distance. Theaters included the Florida, Palace, Imperial, Rialto, Savoy, Grand, Roxy, Arcade, and the Majestic. By the 1970s, many of the district's surviving theaters made ends meet by showing porn and kung fu movies. Today, the Florida Theater is all that remains of this entertainment district now enjoying a rebirth as "The Elbow".
The Palace Theatre at Forsyth and Ocean Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Arcade Theatre's box office was located in an arcade filled with shops that ran between Forsyth and Adams Streets. The arcade's Forsyth Street entrance was the first floor of the Bisbee Building (Laura Trio). Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Imperial Theatre was located on Forsyth Street between Main and Ocean Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Article by Ennis Davis, AICP. Contact Ennis at edavis@moderncities.com
Scott Wiley Used Cars near 5th and Main in the 1950s. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
Auto rows developed in numerous cities in the mid-20th century as car companies sought to create districts where the sale and repair of cars could become an easy urban shopping experience. Springfield’s Main Street was Jacksonville’s first major auto row. Major dealerships on Main Street included Claude Nolan Cadillac, Downtown Chevrolet, Brumos Porsche and Massey Motors.
Gateway Motors near Main and State in the 1950s. Gateway was replaced with the Heart of Jacksonville hotel (Parkview Inn) a few years after this image was taken. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
Triangle Motors in Springfield. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Claude Nolan Cadillac at Main and Orange in the 1910s. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
1. Ashley Street: The Harlem of the South
A parade on Ashley Street, between Broad and Jefferson Streets, during the 1950s.
During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, LaVilla was the city’s railroad hub, primary red light district, and center of African-American life and culture in Northeast Florida. During it's heyday, Ashley was lined with theaters such as the Bijou, Airdome, Globe, Frolic, and Strand. With live music venues like the Lenape Bar, Hollywood Music Store and Knights of Pythias Hall, it was an important stop on what was known as the Chitlin' Circuit for black entertainers. In fact, in 1910, the first published account of blues singing on a public stage occurred on Ashley Street. Ashley's fortunes took a turn for the worse with the rest of the LaVilla neighborhood with Desegregation. What was left as taken out by Ed Austin's River City Renaissance plan of the 1990s.
Inside of Hayes Luncheonette at 634 Ashley Street in 1938.
The Knights of Pythias Building on Ashley Street was torn down in 1957 for a project that never came to reality.
The Strand Threatre, at Ashley and Jefferson, was famous for its apple and potato pies.
3. Meatpacking on West Bay
The majority of downtown's meat packing companies were clustered along Bay Street, between Hogan and Broad Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The meat packing industry handles the slaughtering, processing, packaging, and distribution of animals such as cattle, pigs, sheep and other livestock. While slaughterhouses and stockyards were located on the outskirts of the city, West Bay Street, between Julia and Broad Streets, served as early Jax's meatpacking district. Meatpacking companies here included Morris & Company, Swift & Company , Wilson & Company, Cudahy Packing Company, Smith Richardson & Conroy Wholesale Meats, and Armour & Company. This slice of industry and the rail yards that served it were eventually lost during the city's mid-20th century redevelopment of the riverfront.
These companies were served by railyards where Water Street exists today. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
A look at this district from the Riverside Viaduct. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
4. Hogan Street: A Shopper's Paradise
JCPenney and F.W. Woolworth shared a three story structure at Hogan and Monroe Streets. This building was demolished and replaced with the federal courthouse building in the early 2000s. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
For decades, no mall in Jacksonville could compete with the four blocks of downtown's Hogan Street, between Bay and Duval Streets. Anchored by May-Cohens' flagship department store, the 9th largest in the country when it opened, and Sear's Cadillac Store, the chain's largest in the South, the strip also was home to JCPenney, Levy-Wolf, Furchgott's, Rosenblums, and F.W. Woolworth. In fact, if these stores would have survived the "Billion Dollar Decade," no 21st century shopping center in town would compete with them either. Unfortunately, while new skyscrapers transformed the downtown skyline, six of these stores closed between 1981 and 1987, taking downtown's retail heart right along with them to the burbs.
Levy-Wolf at Hogan and Adams Streets in the early 1980s. Courtesy of the City of Jacksonville Historic Preservation Office.
Rosenblums at Hogan and Adams. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Sears Cadillac Store in 1960. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
May-Cohens at Hogan and Duval Streets during the early 1980s construction of Hemming Plaza. Courtesy of the Library of Congress.
Window shopping at Furchgott's Hogan and Adams flagship store during the 1940s. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
5. Hotel Row on Julia Street
The Mayflower was located at Julia and Bay Streets. The EverBank Tower (then Southern Bell) replaced it during the early 1980s. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
The heart of Florida’s first major city was simultaneously home to one of the largest theater districts in the South and an African-American cultural district in LaVilla, whose vibrancy provided the genesis for the Harlem Renaissance. Visitors and tourist came from all over the world to visit the city’s beautiful and unforgettable charm; creating an environment for several grand hotels that defined the downtown experience. Most of the city's largest hotels, like Hotel Mayflower, George Washington Hotel, Robert Meyer Hotel, Ambassador Hotel, Hotel Aragon, Hotel Rollings, and the Park Hotel where either on or within a two block walk of Julia Street. Partially due to a decline in nearby industry, employment, aging facilities and the closure of the Jacksonville Terminal, most of downtown's major early 20th century hotels ceased operations by the end of the 1970s.
The George Washington Hotel at Julia and Adams. This building was replaced with a surface parking lot, shortly after the hotel closed in the 1970s. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Hotel Aragon was located at Julia and Forsyth Streets. This site is now a surface parking lot for the BB&T Tower. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Robert Meyer Hotel was located at the intersection of Julia and Church Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Park Hotel was located at Julia and Forsyth Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
6. The Great White Way
A postcard of Forsyth Street's theatre district. Courtesy of the Jacksonville Public Library Special Collections Department.
During the first half of the 20th Century, Forsyth Street developed into Jacksonville's version of Manhattan's "Great White Way." Nicknamed in honor of New York City's show district, this downtown entertainment area was a brightly-lit portion of Forsyth Street between Main and Newnan streets, once home to as many as twelve theaters within compact walking distance. Theaters included the Florida, Palace, Imperial, Rialto, Savoy, Grand, Roxy, Arcade, and the Majestic. By the 1970s, many of the district's surviving theaters made ends meet by showing porn and kung fu movies. Today, the Florida Theater is all that remains of this entertainment district now enjoying a rebirth as "The Elbow".
The Palace Theatre at Forsyth and Ocean Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Arcade Theatre's box office was located in an arcade filled with shops that ran between Forsyth and Adams Streets. The arcade's Forsyth Street entrance was the first floor of the Bisbee Building (Laura Trio). Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
The Imperial Theatre was located on Forsyth Street between Main and Ocean Streets. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Article by Ennis Davis, AICP. Contact Ennis at edavis@moderncities.com