The 'Chiefs' of Color
Gerald Joseph explores the history of color within the fashion industry, and how it shapes our everyday lives.
From magazine covers to companies that specialize in color. These “pillars” of influence continue to evolve and shape the industry of what we know currently.
Pictured below are color palattes from Vogue magazine covers around the globe. British artist Richard Buxton completed a study in 2011 examining the history of color in fashion.
From Fastcodesign: Using open-source sampling tools, Buxton located the five most prominent colors in each issue’s cover, then stacked them on top of each other to create a color sandwich. The sandwiches were then arranged into columns, with each vertical column representing a year of magazine covers, and each horizontal column representing a month. So looking at British Vogue covers here, that’s September 1981 at the bottom right. Scan up, and you’ll see August 1981 at the top right; scan across, and you’ll see September 2011 at the bottom left.
Color from US Vogue Covers
Color from Italian Vogue Covers
Color from British Vogue Covers
Color from French Vogue Covers
Italy and France --- Darker color palettes
United States and Great Britain --- Color (U.S. tends to lean towards white color palettes)
Quote from Fastcodesign:
What do the charts tell us? Mostly, they just affirm some long-held stereotypes about fashion in different parts of the world. Note how the palettes of Italy and France are overall much darker than those of the United States and the UK, lending credence to the notion that “wearing color” in Paris and Milan means dressing in head-to-toe black. There is also a startling amount of white in U.S. Vogue, and not just before Labor Day. So our terrible fashion sense is all Anna Wintour’s fault. Refreshing to know.
From: https://www.fastcodesign.com/1669917/seeing-fashion-history-by-reducing-130-years-of-vogue-into-colors#4
I’m sure some of you wonder, “Why is this specific color in this season yet out the next season.”
Overall, there are close to 2,000 shades of color designers have the ability to choose from. Out of that 2,000 (ten) are chosen for a specific season, which means your “average Joe” has a 0.5% chance of seeing his/her favorite color during season.
So, who decides what colors will become the goto colors of the year? Pantone has, quite intentionally, become the arbitrator of colors.
Pantone History
Founded in 1956 as a printing company. Pantone devised color guides via color swatch by using the CMYK system (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black). Pantone continues to influence printing, paint, color, and fabrics. Designers and Artists within the fashion/design industry continue to gather inspirational looks from Pantone's Goe System and color swatches.
Who decides…..
A selection committee of ten are invited by the Carlstadt, N.J.., company. The committee is kept in secret, and they meet in Europe twice a year (May and November). The group meets in a room with white walls, to make colors more apparent. These individuals comprise multiple industries ranging from automobiles, furniture, clothing, and knitwear.
Fall 2013 Colors for Women
Fall 2013 Colors for Men
According to the former creative director of Perry Ellis John Crocco he states [Color forecasts are a self-fulfilling prophecy. If designers choose to follow such forecasts, then they'll be part of what ultimately becomes the trend.]
More Info:
Short NPR report on Pantone and color selection process.
Full Pantone 2013 color report
Pictured below are color palattes from Vogue magazine covers around the globe. British artist Richard Buxton completed a study in 2011 examining the history of color in fashion.
From Fastcodesign: Using open-source sampling tools, Buxton located the five most prominent colors in each issue’s cover, then stacked them on top of each other to create a color sandwich. The sandwiches were then arranged into columns, with each vertical column representing a year of magazine covers, and each horizontal column representing a month. So looking at British Vogue covers here, that’s September 1981 at the bottom right. Scan up, and you’ll see August 1981 at the top right; scan across, and you’ll see September 2011 at the bottom left.
Color from US Vogue Covers
Color from Italian Vogue Covers
Color from British Vogue Covers
Color from French Vogue Covers
Italy and France --- Darker color palettes
United States and Great Britain --- Color (U.S. tends to lean towards white color palettes)
Quote from Fastcodesign:
What do the charts tell us? Mostly, they just affirm some long-held stereotypes about fashion in different parts of the world. Note how the palettes of Italy and France are overall much darker than those of the United States and the UK, lending credence to the notion that “wearing color” in Paris and Milan means dressing in head-to-toe black. There is also a startling amount of white in U.S. Vogue, and not just before Labor Day. So our terrible fashion sense is all Anna Wintour’s fault. Refreshing to know.
From: https://www.fastcodesign.com/1669917/seeing-fashion-history-by-reducing-130-years-of-vogue-into-colors#4
I’m sure some of you wonder, “Why is this specific color in this season yet out the next season.”
Overall, there are close to 2,000 shades of color designers have the ability to choose from. Out of that 2,000 (ten) are chosen for a specific season, which means your “average Joe” has a 0.5% chance of seeing his/her favorite color during season.
So, who decides what colors will become the goto colors of the year? Pantone has, quite intentionally, become the arbitrator of colors.
Pantone History
Founded in 1956 as a printing company. Pantone devised color guides via color swatch by using the CMYK system (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black). Pantone continues to influence printing, paint, color, and fabrics. Designers and Artists within the fashion/design industry continue to gather inspirational looks from Pantone's Goe System and color swatches.
Who decides…..
A selection committee of ten are invited by the Carlstadt, N.J.., company. The committee is kept in secret, and they meet in Europe twice a year (May and November). The group meets in a room with white walls, to make colors more apparent. These individuals comprise multiple industries ranging from automobiles, furniture, clothing, and knitwear.
Fall 2013 Colors for Women
Fall 2013 Colors for Men
According to the former creative director of Perry Ellis John Crocco he states [Color forecasts are a self-fulfilling prophecy. If designers choose to follow such forecasts, then they'll be part of what ultimately becomes the trend.]
More Info:
Short NPR report on Pantone and color selection process.
Full Pantone 2013 color report