Remembering The East Bay Street District
In the first half of the 20th century, the area that is known as East Bay Street today, was almost wholly industrial- and maritime- related. With the railroad and wharves paralleling a block south, along the riverfront, many firms took advantage of Bay Street's easy access to the St. Johns River. The most important industry during this era was shipbuilding and repair.
With the rise of free trade, deindustrialization, and a movement to clean up the downtown waterfront, many industries began to leave the area in the mid-20th century. Although a number of historic warehouses, factories and wharves were left and available for other uses, the majority have been demolished in the later half of the 20th century. With the push to cluster entertainment uses in this section of downtown and the Jacksonville Economic Development Commission's (JEDC) desire to brand the corridor 'The E-Town zone,' Metro Jacksonville takes a look into the district's past.
East Bay Street During The 1920s
During the Summer of 1969, the following editorial by Malcolm Johnson was printed in the Tallahassee Democrat. Mr. Johnson grew up in Jacksonville before moving to Tallahassee in 1937. Forty-two years later, it offers us an incredible glimpse into the character of our downtown entertainment district's past.
Full "Sniffing Along The Jacksonville Waterfront" article: https://www.metrojacksonville.com/article/2009-jul-sniffing-along-the-waterfront
A portrait of employees at Jacob Brock's shipyard taken between 1860 and 1877. Brock's shipyard was the first in Jacksonville and was purchased by Alonzo Stevens after Brock's death in 1877. This firm would evenutally become the Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock & Repair Company and the Jacksonville Shipyards, employing as many as 2,500 workers before finally shutting down for good in 1992.
The corner of Bay and Main Streets three days after the Great Fire of 1901. This was the second major fire to destroy the East Bay Street district. In 1854, a fire caused by sparks from the steamship 'Florida' destroyed Jacksonville's original six-block downtown district along Bay, between Market and Pine (now Main Street).
The ferry slip can be seen from the intersection of Main and Bay Streets.
The wharf at the foot of Ocean Street between 1900 and 1915.
Napoleon B. Broward's famed "Three Friends" steamship.
The foot of the Ocean Street market where catches of fish were sold during the 1910s. This site today is where the Ocean Street ramp passes over Independent Drive.
The Red Star Beef Company and Market on the southeast corner of Bay and Ocean Streets in 1941. Owned by Tony Cotsonis, Red Star dealt in large sales of food products.
Inside the Red Star Market on the southeast corner of Bay and Ocean Streets during the 1930s. While industrial in use, the majority of companies along the waterfront also included retail storefronts for their products along Bay Street, creating a market-district-style atmosphere.
The J.G. Christopher Company building on East Bay Street in 1939. Today, this is the location of Berkman Plaza.
An aerial view of East Bay Street and the Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock & Repair Company in 1941. By this time, the East Bay shipyard included the largest dry dock between Newport News, VA and New Orleans, LA.
Shipyard employees working on ties for a ship in 1946.
The Boat "Spindletop" being christened at Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock and Repair Company in 1946.
Overlooking Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock and Repair Company (Jacksonville Shipyards) in 1946. The curved warehouse to the left is the present site of Berkman Plaza.
The four piers at the Shipyards site are all that remain along an urban waterfront that was once continuously lined with them.
An aerial of the Main Street Bridge in 1947. The intersection of Bay and Ocean Streets can be seen one block from the wharfs, along the river on the bottom right of the image.
An aerial of East Bay Street looking towards the west in 1948.
Maxwell House coffee quality control during the 1950s. In 1910, the Cheek-Neal Coffee Company opened at this East Bay Street location because it was adjacent to where coffee used to be loaded onto ships on Bay Street. Now one of the last remaining industrial facilities still in operation and roasting one million pounds of coffee a day, including payroll, taxes, utilities, and purchases of goods and services, Maxwell House is estimated to have an annual economic impact of $30 million on the city.
Maxwell House Coffee Roasting Plant today.
Leftover rail from former rail lines that once served industries along East Bay Street.
East Bay Street during the 1950s. This aerial illustrates how heavy industrial and maritime activities took place on the waterfront, while supporting retail, office and wholesale uses lined East Bay Street. Typically associated with cities like Seattle, San Francisco, Boston and New York, this type of urban setting was rare for Florida and the South at the time .
Looking east down the intersection of Bay and Newnan Streets in 1957. In an effort to revitalize the waterfront, the block housing Martin's Seeds and Feed (right) was demolished and replaced with Jacksonville's new city hall (now the courthouse annex).
Looking west from the intersection of Bay and Liberty Streets in 1957. The construction of the Duval County Courthouse can be seen on the left, while the Hutchinson/Suddath building's iconic sign can be seen in the background.
Now housing Mark's Jax, the Hutchinson/Suddath building was originally constructed in 1910 as a warehouse for the Hutchinson Shoe Company.
The new city hall building in 1960. Under the leadership of William Haydon Burns, East Bay Street's wharves were replaced with parking lots and public buildings.
The balcony of the modernist, 15-story city hall (now courthouse annex) in 1961. This building and site will be available for new uses, as functions housed in it are shifted to the new Duval County Courthouse in LaVilla.
The Covington Company Building (Churchwell Lofts) today.
Inside the Churchwell Lofts building today.
East Forsyth Street: The Great White Way & Theatre District
As a part of the JEDC's legislation to expand the boundaries of the "E-Town Zone", parts of East Forsyth and Adams Streets have been included. While East Bay's proximity to the river led to it becoming maritime-oriented, during the first half of the 20th Century Forsyth Street developed into Jacksonville's version of Manhattan's "Great White Way". Today, the Florida Theater is all that remains of a theatre district that once had as many as twelve theatres within compact walking distance.
(Lost Jacksonville: The Theater District https://www.metrojacksonville.com/article/2009-sep-lost-jacksonville-the-theater-district)
Old city hall in 1903 at the corner of Forsyth and Ocean Streets. This building was demolished for the Haydon Burns Library.
The Florida Theatre and its staff in 1933.
The Palace (left) and Imperial (right) Theatres at the corner of Forsyth and Ocean in 1923. Today, a two-level, metal parking deck occupies this block.
The Title & Trust Company Building built in 1929 still remains on the corner of Forsyth and Newnan Streets.
The McMurray Livery, Sale & Transfer Company building at 220 East Forsyth Street.
Duval County Courthouse and Armory at the intersection of Forsyth and Market Streets
The former Groover-Steward Drug Company building will be in need of a new use when the Public Defender's office relocates to the new Duval County Courthouse complex in LaVilla.
Labeling The District
In recent years, the former maritime- and market-themed atmosphere of East Bay Street and the theatre district of East Forsyth Street have been replaced with a number of nighttime entertainment-oriented facilities. The desire to see a true entertainment district bloom in Downtown Jacksonville has led to the the JEDC attempting to brand the area as the "E-Town" zone. This action has resulted in several alternative names being suggested within Metro Jacksonville's discussion board. These names include:
- Actionville
- The Entertainment District
- Electrifying District
- E-Bay
- East Bay
- Court District
- Cowford Downs
- Bay Street District
- The Zone
- The District
- The Northbank
- Northbank Nightlife District
- Jumpin' Jax
- Bayside District
- The Core
- Bay and Market
- Market District
- The Spike
- Exchange District
- The Old/Historic Court District
- Bay Tree District
Vote For Your Favorite Name Here: https://www.metrojacksonville.com/forum/index.php/topic,12449.45/viewResults.html
Conclusion
The industrialized activities that took place along East Bay and the Northbank waterfront were every bit as organic as the activities that created NYC's Meatpacking District, Cleveland's Warehouse District, and San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf. While my personal preference would be to let the budding entertainment area and it's "name" organically evolve, just like it has in many of its counterparts, hopefully this article will shed some light into the area's past and stimulate additional ideas for its future.
Historic images courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Article by Ennis Davis.
During the Summer of 1969, the following editorial by Malcolm Johnson was printed in the Tallahassee Democrat. Mr. Johnson grew up in Jacksonville before moving to Tallahassee in 1937. Forty-two years later, it offers us an incredible glimpse into the character of our downtown entertainment district's past.
Quote
The ferry slip at the foot of Main Street was an entryway to a clean breathe of fresh air on the Southside, but first you had to clear the fetid stench of fish and floating oil from the shoreline flushed with the sewage of a thriving city.
That odor was stronger as you went eastward on the waterfront past the Red Star market where, for a nickel, you could get a couple of cold wieners to munch out behind where Negroes caught catfish from a rickety dock.
Nearby was Martin's seed and feed store, with puppies always in the window, and a stock of merchandise that put a country boy in mind of the prairie far away. Seeds smell the same everywhere.
There was the National Lunch, all white and clean, and through the open door drifted the savory fragrance of the specialty - a big bowl of beef stew, 20 cents.
More fish and oil fumes arose through the shanty warehouse (Trenary Fish Company) at the foot of Newnan Street where we used to pick up our quotas of Saturday Evening Post to peddle, and farther along at the dock where the polished fireboat - the John C. Calhoun - was berthed near the venerable Three Friends on which Napoleon B. Broward rode to the governorship with intrepid running of guns for the Cuban revolution.
To the big, cleaner docks of the Clyde Line, merchants, miners and P&O passenger ships then, where few cargoes overpowered the rank emanation from stevedores slapping cards down incessantly in a mystifying game of "skin" played atop a stack of cross-ties.
There, if the wind blew from the land, though, the air would be filled with the aroma of roasting coffee at the Maxwell House plant a few blocks north (and it's still there).
Full "Sniffing Along The Jacksonville Waterfront" article: https://www.metrojacksonville.com/article/2009-jul-sniffing-along-the-waterfront
A portrait of employees at Jacob Brock's shipyard taken between 1860 and 1877. Brock's shipyard was the first in Jacksonville and was purchased by Alonzo Stevens after Brock's death in 1877. This firm would evenutally become the Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock & Repair Company and the Jacksonville Shipyards, employing as many as 2,500 workers before finally shutting down for good in 1992.
The corner of Bay and Main Streets three days after the Great Fire of 1901. This was the second major fire to destroy the East Bay Street district. In 1854, a fire caused by sparks from the steamship 'Florida' destroyed Jacksonville's original six-block downtown district along Bay, between Market and Pine (now Main Street).
The ferry slip can be seen from the intersection of Main and Bay Streets.
The wharf at the foot of Ocean Street between 1900 and 1915.
Napoleon B. Broward's famed "Three Friends" steamship.
The foot of the Ocean Street market where catches of fish were sold during the 1910s. This site today is where the Ocean Street ramp passes over Independent Drive.
The Red Star Beef Company and Market on the southeast corner of Bay and Ocean Streets in 1941. Owned by Tony Cotsonis, Red Star dealt in large sales of food products.
Inside the Red Star Market on the southeast corner of Bay and Ocean Streets during the 1930s. While industrial in use, the majority of companies along the waterfront also included retail storefronts for their products along Bay Street, creating a market-district-style atmosphere.
The J.G. Christopher Company building on East Bay Street in 1939. Today, this is the location of Berkman Plaza.
Quote
John G. Christopher came to Jacksonville in 1877 and became one of the city's most noted entrepreneurs. He started the first wholesale grocery firm in Florida, and in 1884 built the fabulous Murray Hall Hotel at Pablo Beach. During this time he also owned several lines of steamships and schooners that traveled the St. Johns River and made regular trips to New York. He built the first electric generating plant in Florida. In 1896, he started a machinery and mill supply business that became one of the largest in the Southeast and used this two-story warehouse. This building has a handsome facade, featuring three arched entryways highlighted by rusticated jointing of the bricks. Other notable details include cast-stone trim, quoins, and a metal cornice. Before being demolished, the building housed county and city records, including the largest collection of pre-Fire Duval County documents.Source: Jacksonville's Architectural Heritage, pg. 37
An aerial view of East Bay Street and the Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock & Repair Company in 1941. By this time, the East Bay shipyard included the largest dry dock between Newport News, VA and New Orleans, LA.
Shipyard employees working on ties for a ship in 1946.
The Boat "Spindletop" being christened at Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock and Repair Company in 1946.
Overlooking Merrill-Stevens Dry Dock and Repair Company (Jacksonville Shipyards) in 1946. The curved warehouse to the left is the present site of Berkman Plaza.
The four piers at the Shipyards site are all that remain along an urban waterfront that was once continuously lined with them.
An aerial of the Main Street Bridge in 1947. The intersection of Bay and Ocean Streets can be seen one block from the wharfs, along the river on the bottom right of the image.
An aerial of East Bay Street looking towards the west in 1948.
Maxwell House coffee quality control during the 1950s. In 1910, the Cheek-Neal Coffee Company opened at this East Bay Street location because it was adjacent to where coffee used to be loaded onto ships on Bay Street. Now one of the last remaining industrial facilities still in operation and roasting one million pounds of coffee a day, including payroll, taxes, utilities, and purchases of goods and services, Maxwell House is estimated to have an annual economic impact of $30 million on the city.
Maxwell House Coffee Roasting Plant today.
Leftover rail from former rail lines that once served industries along East Bay Street.
East Bay Street during the 1950s. This aerial illustrates how heavy industrial and maritime activities took place on the waterfront, while supporting retail, office and wholesale uses lined East Bay Street. Typically associated with cities like Seattle, San Francisco, Boston and New York, this type of urban setting was rare for Florida and the South at the time .
Looking east down the intersection of Bay and Newnan Streets in 1957. In an effort to revitalize the waterfront, the block housing Martin's Seeds and Feed (right) was demolished and replaced with Jacksonville's new city hall (now the courthouse annex).
Looking west from the intersection of Bay and Liberty Streets in 1957. The construction of the Duval County Courthouse can be seen on the left, while the Hutchinson/Suddath building's iconic sign can be seen in the background.
Now housing Mark's Jax, the Hutchinson/Suddath building was originally constructed in 1910 as a warehouse for the Hutchinson Shoe Company.
Quote
This attractive four-story commercial building was originally constructed for the Hutchinson Shoe Company, a wholesale distributor. The president of the company was E. L. Hutchinson, and the vice president was Robert V. Covington, who owned the large wholesaling company next door. Covington later took over this company. The building was purchased in 1931 by Suddath Moving and Storage Co., which has occupied the building ever since. The Suddath Co. was founded in Jacksonville and has grown to be the largest moving company in Florida, with operations in over fifty countries throughout the world. The building still retains much of its original appearance. Constructed of reinforced concrete, it has a brick facade trimmed with cast stone, a pressed-metal cornice, and a cast-iron store front. This building and the adjoining commercial structures were once part of the busy business district that was served by the wharfs along Bay Street.www.jaxhistory.com/Jax Arch Herit/D-18.htm
Quote
When Carl Suddath bought a moving company with "two mouse-colored mules and related harness, one moving van, two touring cars, a desk and a chair" in 1919, he could have never imagined the growth and success that was to follow. During the early years, the company grew slowly, but steadily. It was not until the 1970's and 80's, with the addition of new businesses such as Suddath International, Suddath Transportation Services, Air Land Forwarders and our becoming a United Van Lines agent, that Suddath experienced the explosive growth that transformed the company into a leader in the industry.https://www.suddath.com/about/history.html
Today, we are a group of multifaceted companies serving the global relocation and transportation market places with over 1,200 employees nationwide and over $200 million in annual revenues.
The new city hall building in 1960. Under the leadership of William Haydon Burns, East Bay Street's wharves were replaced with parking lots and public buildings.
The balcony of the modernist, 15-story city hall (now courthouse annex) in 1961. This building and site will be available for new uses, as functions housed in it are shifted to the new Duval County Courthouse in LaVilla.
The Covington Company Building (Churchwell Lofts) today.
Quote
In 1900 Robert V. Covington moved his wholesale and retail dry goods business from Waycross, Ga., to Jacksonville, and by 1905 he had constructed this four-story gray brick building. In the 1920's the brothers John H. and Augustus F. Churchwell also moved to Jacksonville from Georgia and purchased Covington's business. In 1930 John H. Churchwell bought out his brother. The firm has continued under his name and still owns this building today. The exterior of the building remains virtually unchanged, featuring cast-iron decoration on the lower facade, a pressed-metal cornice, and variously shaped windows. Its size and style make it an important example of Jacksonville's early commercial architecture.https://www.jaxhistory.com/Jax Arch Herit/D-19.htm
Inside the Churchwell Lofts building today.
East Forsyth Street: The Great White Way & Theatre District
As a part of the JEDC's legislation to expand the boundaries of the "E-Town Zone", parts of East Forsyth and Adams Streets have been included. While East Bay's proximity to the river led to it becoming maritime-oriented, during the first half of the 20th Century Forsyth Street developed into Jacksonville's version of Manhattan's "Great White Way". Today, the Florida Theater is all that remains of a theatre district that once had as many as twelve theatres within compact walking distance.
(Lost Jacksonville: The Theater District https://www.metrojacksonville.com/article/2009-sep-lost-jacksonville-the-theater-district)
Old city hall in 1903 at the corner of Forsyth and Ocean Streets. This building was demolished for the Haydon Burns Library.
The Florida Theatre and its staff in 1933.
The Palace (left) and Imperial (right) Theatres at the corner of Forsyth and Ocean in 1923. Today, a two-level, metal parking deck occupies this block.
The Title & Trust Company Building built in 1929 still remains on the corner of Forsyth and Newnan Streets.
The McMurray Livery, Sale & Transfer Company building at 220 East Forsyth Street.
Quote
This building is a pleasant reminder of the days when horses and carriages were the primary means of transportation in Jacksonville. The McMurray Livery, Sale & Transfer Company was established in 1880 by Thomas McMurray, an Irishman. He came to Jacksonville as a Union soldier in 1864, and he remained here as Chief Deputy U. S. Marshall, a post that he held for eleven years. His original livery stable was on the corner of Forsyth and Newnan Streets, where he had a lively trade renting and selling carriages and horses. This business burned in the 1901 Fire, and a new stable was rebuilt on the same site. The livery business prospered with the post-Fire building boom in this city; and in 1905 McMurray Livery, Sale & Transfer Company purchased this present site for expansion purposes. This building was constructed the following year, serving as a carriage showroom, blacksmith shop, and stable for horses.https://www.jaxhistory.com/Jax Arch Herit/D-48.htm
Over the years, as the increasing number of automobiles in Jacksonville helped bring about the demise of the livery business, this property was sold and was variously used as a plumber's shop, a printing company, a gas station, and a garage. In 1972 architect William Morgan purchased the former livery stable and restored its facade to the original configuration. Its interior now houses professional offices and a parking garage. The east wall of this structure marks the approximate location where Jacksonville founder Isaiah D. Hart built his log cabin when he came to Cow Ford in 1821.
Duval County Courthouse and Armory at the intersection of Forsyth and Market Streets
The former Groover-Steward Drug Company building will be in need of a new use when the Public Defender's office relocates to the new Duval County Courthouse complex in LaVilla.
Quote
Founded in 1900 by Flavius T. Christie and Frank C. Groover, the Christie-Groover Drug Company was for many years the largest wholesale drug firm in Florida. In 1905 Mr. Christie retired, and the following year the company was renamed the Groover-Stewart Drug Company, reflecting the addition of M. W. Stewart and H. E. Stewart to the partnership. In 1925 this four-story building was constructed for the company, to serve as warehouse and office space.www.jaxhistory.com/Jax Arch Herit/D-88.htm
Labeling The District
In recent years, the former maritime- and market-themed atmosphere of East Bay Street and the theatre district of East Forsyth Street have been replaced with a number of nighttime entertainment-oriented facilities. The desire to see a true entertainment district bloom in Downtown Jacksonville has led to the the JEDC attempting to brand the area as the "E-Town" zone. This action has resulted in several alternative names being suggested within Metro Jacksonville's discussion board. These names include:
- Actionville
- The Entertainment District
- Electrifying District
- E-Bay
- East Bay
- Court District
- Cowford Downs
- Bay Street District
- The Zone
- The District
- The Northbank
- Northbank Nightlife District
- Jumpin' Jax
- Bayside District
- The Core
- Bay and Market
- Market District
- The Spike
- Exchange District
- The Old/Historic Court District
- Bay Tree District
Vote For Your Favorite Name Here: https://www.metrojacksonville.com/forum/index.php/topic,12449.45/viewResults.html
Conclusion
The industrialized activities that took place along East Bay and the Northbank waterfront were every bit as organic as the activities that created NYC's Meatpacking District, Cleveland's Warehouse District, and San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf. While my personal preference would be to let the budding entertainment area and it's "name" organically evolve, just like it has in many of its counterparts, hopefully this article will shed some light into the area's past and stimulate additional ideas for its future.
Historic images courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.
Article by Ennis Davis.